Makalu Expedition

Makalu is the fifth highest mountain in the world and is located 22 km (14 mi) east of Mount Everest, on the border between Nepal and Tibet. Makalu is an isolated peak whose shape is a four-sided pyramid. Makalu has two notable subsidiary peaks. Kangchungtse, or Makalu II, 7,678 m (25,190 ft), lies about 3 km (2 mi) north-northwest of the main summit. Rising about 5 km (3.5 mi) north-northeast of the main summit across a broad plateau, and connected to Kangchungtse by a narrow, 7,200 m saddle, is Chomo Lonzo, 7,804 m (25,604 ft).

The first attempt on Makalu was made by an American team led by W. Siri in the spring of 1954. They attempted the southeast ridge but were turned back at 7,100 m (23,300 ft) by a constant barrage of storms. A New Zealand team including Sir Edmund Hillary was also active in the spring, but did not get very high due to injury and illness. In the fall of 1954, a French reconnaissance expedition made the first ascents of the subsidiary summits Kangchungtse (October 22: Jean Franco (climber), Lionel Terray, Sirdar Gyaltsen Norbu and Pa Norbu) and Chomo Lonzo (October 30): Jean Couzy and Terray).

Makalu was first climbed on May 15, 1955 by Lionel Terray and Jean Couzy of a French expedition led by Jean Franco. Franco, G. Magnone and Sirdar Gyaltsen Norbu summitted the next day, followed by Bouvier, S. Coupe, Leroux and A. Vialatte on the 17th. The French team climbed Makalu by the north face and northeast ridge, via the saddle between Makalu and Kangchungtse (the Makalu-La), establishing the standard route.  

Makalu is one of the harder eight-thou sanders, and is considered one of the most difficult mountains in the world to climb. The mountain is notorious for its steep pitches and knife-edged ridges that are completely open to the elements. The final ascent of the summit pyramid involves technical rock climbing. Makalu is the only Nepalese 8,000 m peak which has yet to be climbed in true winter conditions.

Itinerary

Day 01: Arrival in Kathmandu & transfer to hotel
Day 02-03: Prepare for Expedition
Day 04: Fly to Tumlingtar and overnight at lodge.
Day 05: Tumlingtar - Manebhanjyang (1100m)
Day 06: Manebhanjyang - Kuwapani
Day 07: Kuwapani - Num (1500m)
Day 08: Num (1500m) - Sedua (1510m)
Day 09: Sedua - Tashigaon (2070m)
Day 10: Acclimatization day at Tashigaon
Day 11: Tashigaon (2070m) - Khongma (3560m)
Day 12: Khongma (3560m) - Sanopokhari
Day 13: Sanopokhari - Mumbuk (3550m)
Day 14: Mumbuk (3550m) - Yangle Kharka (3600m)
Day 15: Yangle Kharka (3600m) - Majh Kharka
Day 16: Majh Kharka - Mkalu Base Camp (4750m)
Day 17: High camp.
Day 18-50: Climbing Period Mt. Makalu.
Day 51: Cleaning up Base Camp.
Day 52: Yak Kharka and overnight at camp.
Day 53: Mumbuk and overnight at lodge.
Day 54: Tashi Goan and overnight at lodge.
Day 55: Nun and overnight at lodge.
Day 56: Chichira and overnight at lodge.
Day 57: Khandbari and overnight at lodge.
Day 58:Tumlingtar and fly back to Kathmandu and transfer to hotel.
Day 59: Kathmandu leisure/ rest /sopping
Day 60: Final Departure.

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